The other morning, there was a 'crazy baldhead' inside our cave. Actually, he wasn't at all crazy;
he was a plumber, from Agen, the prefecture of the Lot et Garonne, a good two
and a half hours' drive from here. It's just that I love that phrase that Bob
Marley sung on one of the Wailers' best-loved songs. I forget which one. But he
did have a bald head, this plumber from Agen. He drove all that way to service
our water softener. After 17 years, I thought it was high time and, ever on the
look-out for something that might go wrong in a life that's worryingly
comfortable, I had convinced myself that it wasn't working as efficiently as it
should. If, indeed, it was working at all. How does one really know, except for
that gentle, loving touch of softened water on skin?
I asked him if he wouldn't mind if I hung around while he
serviced the machine, because I might learn something useful in the process. He
said he wouldn't mind at all. So I hovered in the background, making idle
conversation to strike up some kind of rapport. It wasn't difficult. He came
from up north, from Dunkirk, just about the furthest north you can go in France
without stepping into Belgium. In fact, his somewhat unpronounceable name,
Thuyssen, has a Belgian ring to it. They call the folk from up north les ch'tis; I can't tell you why,
because I haven't seen the film, but it's a different country to what it is
down south and they seem to have as much in common with their neighbours across
the Channel as they do with the people of France
Profonde. So we got on well and since my brother is a plumber, there's
always a kind of vicarious affinity with these men in the trade – with the
notable exception of the git who fitted out our water system when the house was
built, may he decompose swiftly in some hellish bathroom.
Anyway... he told me how he happened to end up in Agen,
famous for its magnificent aqueduct, its prunes and very little else. Wishing
as a young man to get out of Dunkirk, as young men have done since 1940, he and
his partner of the time found what looked on paper like a dream placement in
the Corrèze, our own first port of call before moving to the Lot. His partner
of the time found a nursing post in an old people's home and when he spoke to
the mayor of the commune about the possibility of work as a plumber, the mayor
virtually begged him to come. He would have more local clients than he could
shake a pipe-bender at, the mayor would find him official communal work and the
commune would provide them both with a house free of charge until they found a
house of their own. It was almost too good to be true.
Over a Sunday lunch with his extended family, he revealed
his good fortune and announced his imminent departure. That was great, someone
said. But did he know anything about the Corrèze? No, in fact he didn't.
Neither he nor his partner had given it much thought, thinking it was just some
department down south. When they did their research, they discovered what it
would mean to live as two young people in the Corrèze, the under-populated
middle of nowhere. Very beautiful, of course, but the village in question was
almost an hour's drive from the shops and the only night life to speak of would
be to stand outside their borrowed house listening to the silence while
marvelling at their unpolluted view of the Milky Way. Which is wonderful in its
way, but wouldn't suit the young at heart.
So, reluctantly, they turned down the opportunity of a move
to the pays vert, the green country.
He ended up in Agen, a somewhat bigger place not too far from either Bordeaux
or Toulouse. He and another partner, with whom he settled down and had a
family, have now reached the stage of their lives where they're happy to live
just outside the prune capital of France and enjoy the delights of the
countryside. I knew what he was talking about. I've reached a stage of my life
where all I really want to do is listen to – and write about – music. And watch
films. And read books. And walk the dog. And cook a few meals with fresh
vegetables from Giselle's barn. And enjoy the view of a morning, when the mist
swaddles the valley below like a plumped-up duvet.
There'll be plenty of time for all that this month. The
girls have taken the tests and driven all the way to Calais and thence to the damp
north-west of England, there to undergo quarantine in a Cumbrian farmhouse,
take more tests and try to sort out my recalcitrant mother-in-law. I would have
gone with my wife of 30-odd years, but she had one of her presentiments and I
know her well enough to heed her presentiments. As it transpired, her mother
had another fall while they were on their way, a particularly bad one this
time. She has been taken to Carlisle hospital for an MRI scan and a prognosis,
which means that the Good Wife's presence there is yet more essential. Despite
my own worries about the drive north up the traffic-choked M20, M25, M11 and
A1, they had a trouble-free trip. What's more, the sun shone and didn't stop
shining till they got to the A66 at Scotch Corner, whereupon it started raining
as they drove across the wild moors. They don't call Cumbria the wettest part
of England for nothing. Incidentally, they stopped at a roadside farm shop to
buy a cabbage. I forgot to ask them how they cooked their cabbage and whether
they enjoyed it. I believe there was an order from Sainsbury's waiting at the
rented farmhouse, so they had something to accompany their cabbage.
As for the water softener, the 'crazy baldhead' was quite
amazed by its longevity – particularly since he'd never seen such a dirty one
in all his born days. He said that if it had been housed in our kitchen and
serviced regularly, it would have done exceptionally well to have lasted 17
years. But lodged in a dirty old cellar without any attention other than a
regular dose of salt... well, it defied all logic. Had it really been 17 years
since the Kinetico representative called to hand us over our unit and pose for
the Grand Designs publicity
opportunity, which was of course cut from the final programme? Yes, 17 years
during which the house has settled and weathered. Time next to renew the
linseed-oil paintwork.
The man from Agen took our unit to bits, washed all the
parts and put it all back. While we waited for it to re-fill, I made us a cup
of coffee and sheepishly offered him a chocolate-coated rice cracker as an
accompaniment. I explained that he might find the experience resembled eating
flavoured polystyrene, but he gamely took one and pronounced it not bad. Then
came the crunch: the test of the water to deduce whether or not the unit was
still functioning properly. I waited with baited breath as he dropped some
drops into the plastic phial of softened tap water. Well, doctor? Yes, not bad.
The reading suggested that it was still working acceptably. Not quite as
efficiently as it might have done 17 years ago, but all things considered...
I sent him off on his merry way with directions to his next
port of call and a promise that when our machine is finally consigned to that
great landfill in the sky, he will be the man I contact to supply and fit a new
one. The latest models are, he informed me proudly, even more efficient after
17 years of research and development. So now we have a water softener that looks
positively pristine, even if it's on its last legs. That's one less thing to
worry about. Now I can concentrate on my poor beleaguered wife and her poor
broken-down mother.